![]() ![]() Warning - As a periodic maintenance check the brake system (irrespective of linelock or not) for leaks, kit fails, metal fatigue (pipe), say once in 3 months (for offroading abused jeeps)Ĭontrolle De Trakshone Manuela ? EH ? ( The 'Dream ' of manual traction Control ) This system is to be used only for short bursts (3mins say) in trails and stop lights. So if you leave this linelocked for extended periods of time the wheel cyl kits will tend to wear out sooner and brakes WILL fail. As such I have changed so many wheel cylinder KITS (25-30Rs per cyl) thanks to slush, water from offroading. And afterall the seals are made of rubber and designed for a specific life expectancy. In this system (line lock) the brake system is activated and held in place (read - wheel cylinders are fully actuated) under high pressure. NOTE - No hydraulics is used here, purely manual. So the spring will retract when the hand brake is off. Read on: (My understanding)Ī hand brake (lever) is a cable that is connected to the inners of a brake drum and it manually expands the brake shoes (using a spring loaded mechanism) to hold the wheels in place. I remember reading somewhere LONG time ago - Arka was planning for a cable type hand brake system on all 4 wheels to work as a locker system - may be this will help)įor newbies - You may ask What is different in this (RISK) from a regular car hand brake. (PS - If any one is crazy they can do it for all 4 wheels and get a FULL locker solution for less than 2500Rs. Instead I will Route the 2 OUTPUTS of UNION to the Dashboard - connect them to 2 different valves and route each to each of the front wheels - In that way i can LOCK the free spinning wheel and power the opposite side and get out of a obstacle where applicable. Instead of taking input to the VALVE from MASTER and feeding it back to UNION (T Joint) - I plan to leave the MASTER - UNION intact. Now that I know how this works and what is needed - I plan to do a "LOCKER" mechanism out of this. ![]() Traffic lights for example? Jeep and city can cause tired legs and one would want to rest their feet on signal stops?Īnother application of this which I WILL do in the next stage. There are times in offroading where one cannot switch off the engine to 'walk the trail' (water perhaps) - so this is to be used in such cases. Definitely not overnight or long term parking solution. I dont recommend to use this for any period over 3-5 minutes at a stretch. NOTE - this is not to be used for LONG term parking solution. Incidentally, I had ordered and now in receipt of JAMAR Line Lock (roughly 2500Rs), but after reading lot of MIXED reviews online and every "Thumbs Down" thread spoke of "just live with a ball valve" I decided to try this out. I read about this online and just walked into a hardware store and did this in half a days time. I am sure not many people will take the risk and do this mod - but if you are one of those DIY guys like and badly need a hand brake in your jeep - go ahead, nothing to stop you. Take care to FIX the valve firmly with any means and ensure the setup doesnt rattle/vibrate else the weight of the valve can cut the brake hose.ġ) Cheap and easy hand brake solution for old jeeps (actually, any hydraulic brake vehicle)Ģ) Very powerful brake - works on extreme slopes too!! not just flat roads.ģ) Very easy to install and if broken, can be taken back to OE setup quickly.ġ) Reliability!! (Its still day 1 and its working, but cant say the same tommorow)Ģ) Weakest link is the Ball Valve - current one is cheap, planning to import a Race Certified one and just plug&play into current setup later.ģ) NOT a emergency brake - meaning, only if MASTER works 1st and line is pressuried up - and locked - will the brakes be locked - if master or tandem inside wheels are bust - valve is useless!Ĥ) Cannot be used in emergency sudden stops situations like a car hand brake! Next step is SPLIT or reroute the connection from master to the front brake T-Joint via the ball valve. T Joint is where 1 line from MASTER gets split into 2 lines for left and right wheels (also houses the rear brake light switch). I routed the "OUT from VALVE" through the hand brake hole on firewall and down into the T-joint of front brake. Route it along the steering pipe and into the valve. I studied this topic for a while and made a map in my mind about the routing and decided to take the "IN from MASTER into VALVE" from the steering pipe hole. PRE-Fit the valve, L angle, 2 brake hoses at first to avoid brake fluid loss and excess entry of air into the system. NOTE - This can be either fit on rear or front brakes (or even per each wheel of your choice as a manual locker) I chose to do it on front for a reason. 1 Size ten spanner (IIRC) and nothing else!!ġ mechanic who is ready to get creative and dirty! ![]()
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